You’ve probably tried a cream that feels heavy or a sunscreen that leaves a greasy residue on your skin. This isn’t by chance—it’s the result of a formulation that hasn’t managed to properly balance its ingredients. Finding the right texture without compromising effectiveness is one of the biggest challenges in beauty product formulation. To solve it, experts have refined techniques that are now essential in the cosmetics industry.
In this context, emulsions are a fundamental part of creating creams, lotions, and serums with different properties. To help you understand how they’re used in the cosmetic industry, at Cosmos Aromática we explain what an emulsion is, which types are most commonly used, how to choose the right one for your products, and much more. Let’s dive in!
What is an emulsion in cosmetics?
Emulsions are dispersed systems made up of two immiscible phases, usually water and oil. These phases don’t mix naturally due to their physicochemical properties, which is why an emulsifier is needed to stabilise the mixture and prevent separation. The inclusion of an emulsifier allows droplets of one phase to be evenly distributed in the other, creating a homogeneous texture that makes the product easier to apply to the skin.
Unlike other cosmetic systems such as gels, suspensions or solutions, emulsions are notable for their ability to incorporate active ingredients with different solubilities into a single matrix. This improves both the product’s sensorial qualities and the stability of its actives, ensuring they maintain their effectiveness throughout the product’s shelf life.
What are the most common types of emulsions in cosmetics?
Emulsions can be classified based on how their phases are arranged. Each type has properties that affect how they are applied and how they perform on the skin.
Oil-in-water emulsions (O/W)
These are very common in moisturising creams, lotions and products for oily skin. With a higher water content, they spread easily on the skin without leaving a greasy feel, making them ideal for daytime use. Their structure also supports the inclusion of water-soluble actives, which helps hydrate the skin without clogging pores.
Water-in-oil emulsions (W/O)
This type of emulsion is less common in the cosmetic industry but is essential for formulations requiring high hydration and skin protection. They’re the base for products like sunscreens, nourishing creams, and treatments for dry skin. They form a lipid barrier on the skin that delivers long-lasting hydration and protects against environmental dehydration. Their composition also offers better water resistance, making them ideal for cosmetics that need to stay intact during exposure to moisture or sweat.
Multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O)
This group of emulsions enables controlled release of active ingredients, supporting prolonged action and improving treatment efficacy. Their structure consists of an internal phase encapsulated within a second emulsion, providing stability to the actives and allowing for gradual absorption into the skin. They are commonly used in anti-ageing products, where active retention and progressive release enhance treatment results.
Microemulsions and nanoemulsions
Micro- and nanoemulsions have grown in popularity in the cosmetic industry due to their ability to improve the penetration of actives into the skin. Thanks to their smaller particle size, they provide better absorption and formulation stability. Nanoemulsions, in particular, have a translucent appearance and are highly effective at delivering liposoluble ingredients in a water-based product. This makes them ideal for intensive treatments, such as serums and concentrates requiring deep and effective skin action.
How do emulsions influence the texture and effectiveness of cosmetic products?
The type of emulsification affects both the product’s look and feel, and its effectiveness and user experience. For instance, a serum formulated with a light emulsification absorbs quickly without leaving residue, offering a fresh and comfortable feel on the skin.
In contrast, a night cream with a denser emulsification provides an occlusive effect that boosts water retention, promotes skin regeneration, and maintains a protective barrier during overnight rest.
The bioavailability of active ingredients is also directly influenced by the type of emulsion used. A well-formulated product can enhance the action of moisturising, antioxidant or brightening agents, maximising their skin benefits and improving active absorption. For example, in water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, liposoluble actives stay in contact with the skin longer, prolonging their effect and efficacy.
On the other hand, oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions enable faster ingredient release, support immediate penetration, and offer a fresher skin feel. Therefore, choosing the right emulsifying system is key to ensuring that actives work efficiently and achieve the desired results for each skin type and cosmetic treatment.
What natural ingredients are used to create emulsions in cosmetics?
In the pursuit of more sustainable and natural formulations, the cosmetic industry has embraced natural-origin ingredients that offer both stability and skin compatibility.
Natural emulsifiers
Common choices in natural cosmetics include soy lecithin, beeswax and natural gums such as xanthan and guar. These are ideal for promoting formulation stability and delivering skin benefits such as hydration and moisture retention in the epidermis.
Oil phase in natural emulsions
Plant oils play a key role in cosmetic emulsion formulation by providing emollience, nourishment and protection against dehydration. Commonly used oils include jojoba oil, which helps balance sebum production; argan oil, rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids; coconut oil, for softness and fast absorption; and almond oil, known for its soothing and moisturising properties.
Water phase in natural emulsions
The water phase is equally important in natural emulsions as it provides freshness and carries water-soluble active ingredients. Ingredients used here include hydrosols, floral waters obtained through distillation that offer soothing and toning benefits. Popular options include rose hydrosol, with antioxidant effects, and lavender hydrosol, known for its relaxing properties. Likewise, botanical extracts enrich formulations with natural actives that boost product performance. Another key ingredient is aloe vera, which provides deep hydration, regenerative benefits, and a calming effect on the skin.
How to choose the right emulsion for a specific cosmetic product?
To determine the most suitable emulsification, it’s crucial to consider the product’s target skin type, function, active ingredient stability, and desired sensorial profile. Each type of emulsification brings properties that affect absorption, texture, and retention on the skin.
A long-lasting sunscreen, for instance, will benefit from a W/O emulsion, as this type forms a water-resistant barrier, improves adherence to the skin, and provides better UV protection. It also typically delivers deep hydration, making it ideal for dry or weather-exposed skin.
Meanwhile, a refreshing lotion for oily skin will require an O/W emulsion, which is known for being lightweight and fast-absorbing. These emulsions create a fresh skin feel, reduce shine, and support the inclusion of hydrating actives without clogging pores. They are ideal for daily use, especially in warm climates or for individuals with combination or oily skin.
Custom emulsions to boost your brand
As we’ve seen, emulsions play a vital role in the cosmetic industry by directly influencing both product effectiveness and user experience. Choosing the right emulsification ensures product stability and sensorial appeal, while enhancing the benefits of active ingredients for better performance and long-term skin results.
At Cosmos Aromática, we specialise in manufacturing customised emulsions designed to suit the unique characteristics of your products and provide innovative solutions in the cosmetic industry.
Our expertise and commitment to R&D allow us to deliver high-quality formulations that meet market standards. If you’re looking for innovation, performance, and quality in your cosmetic product formulations, get in touch with us so we can start developing emulsions tailored to your business.
